2013 Ford Escape Coolant Flush: DIY Step-by-Step

The 2013 Ford Escape — especially with the 1.6L EcoBoost engine — has a history of coolant-related issues, making a proper DIY coolant flush one of the most important maintenance jobs you can do.

What You'll Need

• Motorcraft Orange Antifreeze/Coolant (VC-3-B) — Ford-spec for the 2013 Escape (do NOT use green or universal coolant)
• Distilled water (not tap water)
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon capacity)
• Flathead screwdriver
• 8mm socket (for overflow reservoir clamp, if present)
• Coolant funnel/fill tool or standard funnel
• Flush tee and garden hose (optional for full flush)
• Shop rags
• Safety glasses and gloves

Estimated time: 45–60 minutes Estimated cost: $30–$50 (vs. $120–$160 at a shop)

Before You Start

The 2013 Ford Escape 1.6L EcoBoost had a well-documented coolant loss issue — Ford issued TSBs and extended warranty coverage on some vehicles for coolant leaks at the head gasket and coolant outlet housing. Before doing a flush, inspect for white smoke from the exhaust (coolant burning), milky oil on the dipstick, or a sweet smell at the exhaust — these indicate a head gasket failure, not just a maintenance flush. If you see these signs, do not just flush; have the engine inspected first. Also: never open the coolant system on a hot engine. Coolant under pressure will spray and cause severe burns.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Let the engine cool completely — 2–3 hours minimum after last run. The system is pressurized when hot.
2. Locate the drain petcock — The radiator drain is a plastic petcock on the bottom driver's side of the radiator. Place your drain pan underneath.
3. Remove the radiator cap — On a cold engine, remove the cap slowly to release any residual pressure.
4. Open the drain petcock — Turn counterclockwise (a flathead screwdriver may help). Old coolant will flow out. The 2013 Escape coolant capacity is approximately 6.6 quarts (1.6L) or 8.5 quarts (2.0L) total system volume.
5. Drain fully — Let drain for 5–10 minutes. The drain will slow to a trickle — that's fine, the engine block still holds coolant.
6. Close the petcock and perform a water flush (optional) — Fill the system with distilled water via the overflow reservoir, run the engine for 10 minutes with the heat on max (this circulates the water through the heater core), then drain again. Repeat once for a thorough flush.
7. Close the drain petcock — Hand tight plus 1/4 turn. Do not overtighten or you'll crack the plastic petcock.
8. Mix the new coolant — Ford Motorcraft VC-3-B comes as full-strength concentrate. Mix 50/50 with distilled water. Pre-mixed 50/50 VC-3-B concentrate is also available — use that if available.
9. Fill the overflow reservoir — Fill slowly to the MAX cold line. The 1.6L system holds approximately 3.3 quarts of coolant (50/50 mix) when refilling the drained portion.
10. Bleed the system — The 2013 Escape can trap air in the system. Leave the radiator cap off, start the engine, turn heat to full hot, and let it idle. Watch the coolant level in the reservoir — it will drop as air purges. Add coolant until the level stabilizes and you see flow in the reservoir.
11. Install the cap — Once the engine reaches operating temperature and the thermostat opens (coolant starts circulating and the upper radiator hose gets hot), cap the system.
12. Check for leaks and verify temperature — Let it idle for 5 more minutes. Check the hoses, petcock, and overflow reservoir cap for seeping. Verify the temperature gauge reads in the normal range.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the wrong coolant — This is critical on the 2013 Escape. Ford's engine requires Motorcraft orange coolant (VC-3-B, OAT formula). Using Dex-Cool or green silicate antifreeze degrades seals and the aluminum system faster than the factory coolant.
• Skipping the bleed step — Air pockets in the 2013 Escape system cause hot spots, overheating, and heater core failure. The bleed step is not optional.
• Opening the system when hot — Hot coolant is under pressure (15 PSI). Even a "warm" system can spray. Always work cold.
• Using tap water for the 50/50 mix — Tap water contains minerals that deposit scale inside the cooling system. Always use distilled water.

Troubleshooting

Temperature gauge rises above normal after flush: Air pocket in the system. Pull over safely, let the engine cool completely, and re-bleed the cooling system with the cap off at idle. Check reservoir level.

New coolant appears contaminated with oil: Stop driving — this indicates a head gasket leak. Oil in the coolant system is a serious repair; don't attempt to flush and drive through this.

Coolant loss after flush with no visible leak: Check for the sweet exhaust smell and white smoke — signs of internal head gasket seepage. The 1.6L EcoBoost has a known susceptibility. Contact a Ford dealer to check for applicable TSBs on your VIN.

Final Thoughts

A proper coolant flush on the 2013 Ford Escape is cheap insurance — especially on the 1.6L EcoBoost, where cooling system neglect has ended engines early. Do it every 30,000–50,000 miles, use the right Ford-spec coolant, and bleed it properly. For more Escape maintenance guides — oil changes, spark plugs, thermostat — see the OwnerDrop Complete DIY Mechanic Library.

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Want the complete step-by-step system for maintaining your 2013 Ford Escape? The Complete DIY Mechanic Library covers oil changes, brakes, electrical, suspension, and more — everything in one place.