2015 Chevy Colorado Brake Pad Replacement — 2.5L and 3.6L Both Covered
2015 Chevy Colorado Brake Pad Replacement — 2.5L and 3.6L Both Covered
Here's how I do brake pad replacement on my 2015 Chevy Colorado. This guide covers both the 2.5L four-cylinder and the 3.6L V6 — the brake hardware is the same across both engines. The rear pistons use a wind-back design (not a press-in), which trips up first-timers. Dealer quote for all four corners: $600–$900. Parts cost doing it yourself: $120–$180.
What Makes the Colorado Rears Different
The DIY Mechanic System
Diagnose the problem, know what to buy, and keep the next repair moving with practical plans, tool lists, torque specs, and maintenance workflows.
Get the DIY Mechanic SystemMost vehicles have rear calipers with pistons you press straight back in. The Colorado's rear calipers are wind-back style — the piston screws in clockwise as you push. If you try to press the rear pistons with a C-clamp, you'll damage the caliper. You need a wind-back cube or caliper rewind tool for the rear procedure.
Fronts are standard press-in, same as most vehicles.
Tools and Parts
Front
- Front brake pads: ACDelco 171-0909 or equivalent
- Front rotors (if replacing): ACDelco 18A2373 (driver), 18A2374 (passenger)
- 15mm socket (caliper guide pin bolts), 12mm socket (bracket bolts)
- Brake piston press or large C-clamp
- Bungee cord (to hang the caliper)
Rear
- Rear brake pads: ACDelco 171-1109 or equivalent
- Rear rotors (if replacing): ACDelco 18A1356 (driver), 18A1357 (passenger)
- 13mm socket (caliper guide pin bolts), 12mm socket (bracket bolts)
- Wind-back cube / caliper rewind tool — non-negotiable for the rear
Both
- Brake cleaner spray
- High-temp brake lubricant
- Torque wrench
- Jack and jack stands, 19mm lug nut wrench
Torque Specs
| Fastener | Spec |
|---|---|
| Front caliper guide pin bolts | 23 ft-lbs (31 Nm) |
| Front caliper bracket bolts | 85 ft-lbs (115 Nm) |
| Rear caliper guide pin bolts | 26 ft-lbs (35 Nm) |
| Rear caliper bracket bolts | 74 ft-lbs (100 Nm) |
| Lug nuts | 140 ft-lbs (190 Nm) |
Step-by-Step: Front Brake Pads
-
Loosen lug nuts before lifting. Safely raise and support the Colorado on jack stands. Remove the front wheel.
-
Check the brake fluid reservoir — remove some fluid with a turkey baster if it's near the MAX line before pushing pistons back.
-
Remove both caliper guide pin bolts (15mm). Swing the caliper up off the rotor. Hang it from the coil spring or strut with a bungee — never by the brake line.
-
Slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
-
If replacing rotors: remove the two bracket bolts (12mm), remove the bracket, slide the rotor off.
-
Clean the bracket slide rails with brake cleaner. Apply thin brake lubricant to the slide rails only — not the rotor or pad friction surface.
-
Push the front caliper piston straight back in with a C-clamp or piston press (fronts are standard press-in).
-
Install new pads in the bracket. Slide the caliper back over the rotor and new pads. Reinstall guide pin bolts — torque to 23 ft-lbs. Bracket bolts if removed — torque to 85 ft-lbs.
Step-by-Step: Rear Brake Pads (Wind-Back Pistons)
The rear pistons must be rotated clockwise as they retract. A wind-back cube (~$20 at auto parts stores) fits in a 3/8" ratchet and engages the two slots on the piston face.
-
Safely raise and support the rear. Remove the rear wheel (19mm, 140 ft-lbs).
-
Check brake fluid reservoir — remove some fluid if near MAX.
-
Remove rear caliper guide pin bolts (13mm). Slide or swing caliper off the rotor. Hang from suspension with a bungee.
-
Remove old rear pads from the bracket. Clean bracket slide rails and apply thin brake lubricant.
-
Wind the piston back: Insert the wind-back cube into your ratchet. Place it against the piston face, engaging the two slots. Apply moderate inward pressure while rotating clockwise. Continue until the piston is fully seated. This takes more effort than a front press — that's normal.
-
Install new rear pads in the bracket. Reinstall caliper — torque guide pin bolts to 26 ft-lbs. Bracket bolts if removed — torque to 74 ft-lbs.
Break-In Procedure (Bed the Pads)
New pads must be bedded before full braking performance is achieved.
Standard bed-in sequence:
- In a safe, open area, accelerate to 30 mph and apply moderate brake pressure to slow to 5 mph. Do not stop completely.
- Repeat 6–8 times with 30 seconds of cooling between stops.
- Then do 3 moderate stops from 45 mph to 5 mph.
- Allow brakes to cool completely (15+ minutes — no hard stops during cooldown).
After bed-in, braking feel will be significantly improved with even friction material transfer.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Dealer
| DIY | Chevy Dealer | |
|---|---|---|
| Front pads | $35–$55 | Included |
| Rear pads | $30–$50 | Included |
| Labor (4 corners) | $0 | $400–$600 |
| Total | $65–$105 | $550–$800 |
Savings: $450–$700 per service.
For more brake-related guides including brake bleeding procedures, check the OwnerDrop blog. The 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee brake pad replacement guide also covers wind-back rear calipers if you're working across multiple vehicles.
Ready to tackle every repair your Colorado needs? Get the full repair library at OwnerDrop.
Written by OwnerDrop Team
DIY automotive guides and systems for independent mechanics. We test every procedure, document every torque spec, and build every tool list from scratch.
The DIY Mechanic System
Keep the next repair moving.
Use practical repair plans, tool lists, torque specs, and maintenance workflows when you need the full path from first check to final test.
Get the DIY Mechanic System