DIY Rear Drum Brake Replacement: Full Step-by-Step Guide

Rear drum brakes are more complex than disc brakes — more springs, more parts, more chances to reinstall something wrong. But they're absolutely a DIY-able job if you take it methodically, work one side at a time, and use the reference side for comparison. Shops charge $300–$500 per axle. Your parts cost: $50–$120. Let's get into it.

What You Need

• Rear drum brake kit (shoes, hardware kit — springs, hold-down pins, adjusters)
• Brake drums (if worn or scored beyond spec)
• Jack and jack stands
• Lug wrench and breaker bar
• Basic socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
• Brake spring pliers or brake tool set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake cleaner
• Brake hardware lubricant (NOT on friction surfaces)
• Rubber mallet
• C-clamp or drum brake adjusting tool
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses and gloves

Safety First

• Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack. Use jack stands.
• Work one side at a time. Always keep the opposite side assembled so you have a reference for spring and hardware placement.
• Never get brake fluid, grease, or cleaner on friction surfaces. Contaminated brake shoes must be replaced, not cleaned.
• Wear eye protection. Old brake dust can contain asbestos in pre-2001 vehicles. Wet down old dust before disturbing it.

Step-by-Step: Rear Drum Brake Replacement

Step 1: Loosen Lug Nuts and Lift the Vehicle

With the car on flat ground, crack the lug nuts loose before lifting. Jack up the rear, place jack stands under the frame rails or axle, and lower onto the stands. Remove the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the Brake Drum

The drum sits over the shoe assembly. If it's stuck (they often are), don't pry against the shoe. First check for retaining screws — some drums have one or two small Phillips screws holding them to the hub. Remove those first.

To break a stuck drum free: thread two lug nuts into the drum's puller holes (most drums have them) and tighten evenly until the drum pops off. Or gently tap around the outer edge with a rubber mallet.

Step 3: Photograph Before Disassembly

Seriously — take 3–4 photos of the assembly from different angles before you remove anything. Drum brake hardware is a spider web of springs and clips that won't make sense from memory.

Step 4: Inspect the Drum

Measure the inner drum diameter with a drum micrometer (or have your parts store do it). If it's scored deeply or worn beyond the max diameter stamped on the drum, replace it. Light scoring is fine.

Step 5: Remove the Shoes — Work Systematically

Start with the easier parts:

1. Remove the hold-down pins and springs — press and rotate the cup to release the pin on each shoe
2. Unhook the return springs (top and bottom) using your brake spring pliers — these are under tension, be careful
3. Remove the adjuster assembly — note the orientation (left vs. right threads differ side to side)
4. Remove the parking brake lever connection (varies by vehicle — pin or clip)
5. Slide the shoes off

Lay all the parts out in order on a clean shop towel.

Step 6: Clean and Inspect

Spray brake cleaner inside the drum and backing plate. Let dry. Inspect the wheel cylinder (the small hydraulic cylinder at the top of the backing plate) — if it's wet, it's leaking and needs replacement or rebuilding. Inspect the backing plate for grooves that would score new shoes.

Step 7: Install New Hardware

Apply a thin coat of brake hardware lubricant to the raised contact pads on the backing plate (where the shoes slide). Not on the friction material. Install new hold-down pins if included.

Step 8: Transfer the Parking Brake Lever

Your new shoes likely came without the lever. Transfer the parking brake lever from the old shoe to the new one — there's usually a clip or pin holding it.

Step 9: Install the New Shoes

Work in reverse order of removal:

1. Mount the shoes onto the backing plate
2. Connect the parking brake lever
3. Install the adjuster (correct thread side — driver's side and passenger's side are different)
4. Hook up the lower return spring
5. Install the hold-down pins and cups
6. Hook up the upper return spring

Pull your reference photos and compare. Everything should mirror the original exactly.

Step 10: Pre-Adjust the Shoes

Turn the adjuster star wheel until the shoes just barely drag against the drum when you spin it by hand. Then back off a few clicks until the drum spins freely with slight resistance. This gets you close before driving.

Step 11: Reinstall the Drum and Wheel

Slide the drum on. If it's tight, back off the adjuster slightly. Mount the wheel, torque the lug nuts to spec (usually 80–100 ft-lbs for rear wheels).

Step 12: Adjust After Road Test

Drive 10–15 mph, apply the parking brake firmly several times, then release. This self-adjusts the rear shoes. Check the pedal feel — it should be firm and consistent. Re-inspect for leaks after 24 hours.

Get the full repair library at OwnerDrop → /pricing