2016 Kia Sorento Front Wheel Bearing Replacement (Hub Assembly)

Here's exactly how I replace the front wheel bearing on a 2016 Kia Sorento — the wheel bearing is a bolt-on hub assembly, which makes this a straightforward job if you have the right torque specs. The axle nut specification is critical — under-torquing causes premature bearing failure.

What You'll Need

• Front hub assembly with bearing: Timken HA590431 or Moog 513282 (confirm fitment by VIN — FWD vs. AWD matters)
• 32mm or 34mm socket for the axle nut (confirm size for your vehicle)
• 19mm socket for lug nuts
• 17mm, 14mm sockets for hub bolts and caliper hardware
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (must handle 185 ft-lbs)
• 1/2" drive impact wrench (very helpful for axle nut)
• Floor jack and jack stands
• Brake cleaner
• Anti-seize compound (for hub bolts)
• New axle nut (single-use — the 2016 Sorento uses a prevailing torque nut that must be replaced)

Estimated time: 60–90 minutes per side Estimated cost: $120–$180 per hub assembly (vs. $450–$600 per side at a Kia dealer)

Before You Start on Your 2016 Sorento

The 2016 Kia Sorento front wheel bearing is part of an integrated hub assembly — the bearing is pressed into the hub as a unit, and you replace the entire assembly rather than pressing bearings in and out separately. This is the key that makes this a DIY-friendly job: bolt-off, bolt-on.

Confirm you're replacing the correct side. Wheel bearing noise is typically a humming or growling that changes pitch when you steer left or right. Turning right loads the left bearing (noise increases when turning right = left bearing). Turning left loads the right bearing (noise increases turning left = right bearing).

The axle nut on the 2016 Sorento front axle is 185 ft-lbs (251 Nm). This is not a "tighten until it feels right" situation. A proper 1/2" drive torque wrench is required. Also note: the axle nut is a one-time-use prevailing torque nut — it must be replaced, never reused. Buy a new one from the dealer parts counter.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Loosen the axle nut with wheel on the ground — Before jacking the vehicle, set the parking brake and loosen the large center axle nut. This nut is extremely tight — 185 ft-lbs plus corrosion. A 1/2" drive impact wrench makes this significantly easier. Break it loose but don't remove it yet.
2. Loosen lug nuts, then jack and support — Loosen the 5 lug nuts (19mm), raise the vehicle, place jack stands, then remove the lug nuts and wheel.
3. Remove the brake caliper — Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (14mm). Hang the caliper from a hook on the spring — do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor.
4. Disconnect the ABS sensor wire — There's a clip holding the ABS sensor wire to the hub assembly. Unclip it. The sensor itself may be bolted to the bearing housing with a 10mm bolt — remove it.
5. Disconnect the outer tie rod end — Remove the castle nut (17mm typically) and use a ball joint separator tool to separate the tie rod from the knuckle. You don't need to fully remove the tie rod — just disconnect it from the knuckle to allow the knuckle to tilt outward.
6. Remove the axle nut and back it off — Remove the axle nut completely. The CV axle shaft should push back slightly to clear the hub.
7. Remove the hub assembly bolts — The hub assembly is bolted to the steering knuckle from behind. Typically 3 bolts (14mm or 17mm). Remove all three.
8. Remove the hub assembly — The hub should pull out from the knuckle. If it's corroded and stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap it free. Do not hammer the axle shaft — you'll damage the CV joint.
9. Inspect the axle shaft splines — While the hub is off, look at the CV axle's outer splines for any damage or excessive wear. Check the CV boot for cracking or grease leakage. If the boot is torn, replace the axle now while it's accessible.
10. Install the new hub assembly — Apply a thin coat of anti-seize on the hub bolt threads. Insert the CV axle through the new hub and seat the hub against the knuckle. Install the three hub bolts and torque to 74 ft-lbs (100 Nm).
11. Reconnect the ABS sensor — Bolt the ABS sensor back to the hub housing.
12. Reconnect the tie rod end — Thread the castle nut onto the tie rod end stud. Torque to 32 ft-lbs (44 Nm) minimum, then tighten further as needed to align the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
13. Install new axle nut — Thread on the new prevailing torque axle nut by hand. Lower the vehicle so the wheel is on the ground (or have someone press the brakes), then torque to 185 ft-lbs (251 Nm). Use a 1/2" drive torque wrench confirmed to your spec.
14. Reinstall rotor and brake caliper — Reinstall the rotor, then the caliper with its slide pin bolts torqued to 32 ft-lbs.
15. Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs (108 Nm) in a star pattern.
16. Test drive and verify — Drive 10 minutes at various speeds. The humming or growling noise should be gone.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Under-torquing the axle nut — 185 ft-lbs is the spec. Under-torquing causes the bearing to move in the hub and fail prematurely.
• Reusing the axle nut — Buy a new one. Single-use prevailing torque nuts lose their locking ability once removed.
• Skipping alignment after suspension work — Disconnecting the tie rod can affect toe alignment. Get a four-wheel alignment after this repair.

For the full 2016 Kia Sorento maintenance guide — oil changes, brakes, spark plugs, transmission fluid — get the full repair library at OwnerDrop — starting at $29.99/mo.

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Related guides: How to inspect ball joints yourself | When to replace brake pads vs. rotors