2022 Ford Explorer ST Brake Pad Replacement — Brembo Fronts, EPB Rear, DIY Guide

The Explorer ST is a heavier vehicle with a 400-horsepower 3.0L EcoBoost, and it works its brakes harder than a standard Explorer. The ST comes with Brembo front brake calipers — a big red badge that looks impressive but also means the front pads cost more and the caliper clearance is tighter when compressing pistons. The rear has an electronic parking brake (EPB), which means you cannot simply push the rear caliper pistons in. You have to rotate them in.

I replaced the pads on my ST at 38,000 miles after the wear indicators started squealing. Here's the full procedure.

Quick Reference

Item	Spec
Vehicle	2022 Ford Explorer ST (3.0L EcoBoost)
Front caliper	Brembo 4-piston fixed caliper
Rear caliper	Single-piston floating with EPB
Front pad (OEM)	Motorcraft BR1450 or Akebono ASP1453
Rear pad (OEM)	Motorcraft BR1551 or Akebono ASP1454
Front caliper slide pin torque	25 lb-ft (34 Nm)
Front caliper bracket bolt torque	85 lb-ft (115 Nm)
Rear caliper slide pin torque	25 lb-ft (34 Nm)
Rear caliper bracket bolt torque	85 lb-ft (115 Nm)
EPB piston tool required	Yes — rear pistons rotate inward
Brake fluid spec	DOT 3 or DOT 4

The EPB Rear — Read This Before Starting

The rear calipers on the 2022 Explorer ST have an electronic parking brake (EPB). This changes one critical step: you cannot push the rear pistons straight in with a C-clamp or piston tool. The rear piston must be rotated clockwise while being pushed in simultaneously. This is a 2-in-1 motion.

You need a brake caliper piston wind-back tool (also called an EPB cube or rear caliper tool set). These are available for about $20–$35 at any auto parts store. Do not attempt the rear brake job without one. Forcing the rear piston straight in will damage the caliper.

You also need to disable the EPB before working on the rear:

• Through the SYNC infotainment: Settings > Vehicle > Park Brake Service Mode (varies by config)
• Or manually via the FordPass app if equipped
• Some mechanics do it mechanically by pulling the EPB fuse (Fuse Box, Passenger Compartment, EPB relay) — consult your owner's manual

Re-enable EPB service mode after the job is done and bed the brakes before testing the parking brake function.

Tools Needed

• Lug wrench and breaker bar (19mm lug nuts on most ST configurations)
• Floor jack and two jack stands
• 10mm socket and ratchet (brake hose bracket bolt)
• 13mm socket (front caliper slide pins)
• T45 Torx bit or 13mm hex (rear caliper slide pins — varies by build)
• Torque wrench (15–100 lb-ft range)
• Brake piston wind-back tool (rear — required)
• C-clamp or piston press (front — standard compression)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Anti-squeal brake pad compound (ceramic quiet or similar)
• Fresh DOT 4 brake fluid and turkey baster for reservoir management
• Nitrile gloves

Front Brake Pad Replacement

The Brembo fronts on the Explorer ST look intimidating but work the same as any other caliper — the difference is that the 4-piston fixed caliper has two pistons on each side that compress simultaneously. You don't remove the caliper from the bracket in the same way as a floating caliper.

1. Break the Lug Nuts Loose

Before lifting the vehicle, break all five lug nuts loose (counterclockwise) about ¼ turn each. Do not remove — just crack loose.

2. Lift and Support the Vehicle

Raise the front of the vehicle on a floor jack under the front subframe or designated jack point. Place jack stands under the frame rails. Remove the wheel.

3. Inspect the Rotor

Before touching the caliper, look at the rotor. The 2022 Explorer ST OEM front rotors are 13.9" vented rotors. If the rotor has deep grooves or the edge lip is more than 2–3mm tall, plan to replace rotors at the same time. Pads on a grooved rotor will wear 30–40% faster and will squeal.

4. Remove the Front Pads

On the Brembo fixed caliper, the pads are retained by caliper clip pins or a carrier frame that slides out once the anti-rattle clips are released. On the ST, you typically:

1. Remove the two caliper pad retainer pins (10mm or 8mm hex)
2. Slide the pad retention bridge out
3. Pull the old pads free from the caliper body

Take photos of the anti-rattle clip orientation before removing them — they're directional.

5. Compress the Front Pistons

On the fixed Brembo, push both inner and outer pistons straight back simultaneously using a C-clamp or piston press. Before compressing, open the master cylinder reservoir and use a turkey baster to remove about 1/3 of the fluid — compressing pistons forces fluid back into the reservoir, which can overflow if full.

6. Install New Front Pads

Apply anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plates (metal side only — not the friction material). Slide the new pads into the caliper body in the correct orientation. Reinstall the retainer bridge and pins. Torque pad retainer pins to spec per the pad manufacturer's instructions.

7. Reinstall the Front Wheel

Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to 150 lb-ft. Lower the vehicle.

Rear Brake Pad Replacement

1. Engage EPB Service Mode

Activate parking brake service mode through the infotainment or FordPass before removing the rear wheel. This retracts the EPB piston to allow pad replacement.

2. Lift and Support

Raise the rear under the rear differential or frame. Set jack stands. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the Rear Caliper

The rear caliper floats on two slide pins. Remove the two slide pin bolts (counterclockwise), pull the caliper off the rotor, and hang it on a hook from the spring or frame — do not let it dangle from the brake hose.

4. Remove the Rear Pads and Inspect

Remove the old pads from the bracket. Inspect both pads — wear should be roughly even. If the inner is significantly more worn than the outer, the slide pins may be seized (common on high-mileage or climate-exposed calipers).

Clean the pad abutment surfaces on the bracket with brake cleaner and a wire brush.

5. Retract the Rear Piston — Wind-Back Tool Required

Insert your wind-back tool into the rear caliper piston face. The tool must simultaneously:

1. Push inward (compress)
2. Rotate clockwise (thread the piston back in)

Use slow, steady pressure — don't rush. The piston threads into the caliper like a screw. It may take 15–25 rotations to fully retract. If it's not moving inward as you turn, recheck that you're turning clockwise (from behind the caliper).

6. Install New Rear Pads

Apply anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plates. Seat the new pads in the bracket. Verify the wear indicator is positioned on the leading edge of the inner pad (toward direction of rotor rotation).

7. Reinstall the Rear Caliper

Slide the caliper over the new pads. Apply fresh brake caliper lube to the slide pin boots if they look cracked or dry. Thread in the slide pin bolts and torque to 25 lb-ft.

8. Re-enable EPB Service Mode and Test

Restore the parking brake system via the infotainment. Apply the parking brake manually and release — confirm it holds and releases properly before driving.

Bedding the Brakes

After new pads, bed them properly before hard stops:

1. Accelerate to 35 mph, brake firmly (not ABS activation) to ~5 mph
2. Drive slowly for 60 seconds to cool
3. Repeat 4–5 times
4. Repeat the same sequence at 55 mph
5. Let brakes cool completely before parking (15+ minutes of light driving — no standing stop with brakes applied)

Bedding transfers an even layer of pad material to the rotor surface and eliminates squealing, juddering, and the glazing that causes reduced stopping distance.

Cost Comparison

	DIY	Ford Dealer
Front pads (Motorcraft or Akebono)	~$60–$90	—
Rear pads	~$50–$75	—
Brake caliper wind-back tool	~$25 (reusable)	—
Labor	$0	$300–$450
Total (first time)	~$135–$190	$450–$650

After the tool is purchased, subsequent pad changes cost $110–$165. The wind-back tool pays for itself on the first job.

Common Mistakes

1. Not using a wind-back tool on the rear. Pushing the EPB piston straight in damages the caliper's internal threading mechanism. There's no shortcut here.

2. Skipping EPB service mode. Replacing rear pads with the EPB in normal mode will result in the piston not compressing and potentially damage the EPB actuator.

3. Overtorquing the caliper bracket bolts. 85 lb-ft is the spec. Exceeding it can crack the caliper bracket on the ST's larger hardware.

4. Not bedding the brakes. New pads on a hot rotor with no bedding procedure = pad glazing, squealing, and reduced stopping distance from the first hard stop.

5. Letting the caliper hang from the brake hose. The hose is not structural. A falling caliper can tear the hose and cost you $200+ to repair.

For more on Explorer and SUV brake maintenance, see the 2017 Toyota Highlander brake pad replacement guide. For an overview of what these jobs cost at the shop vs. DIY, see the car repair cost guide.

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