Strut Replacement DIY: Full Guide for Front and Rear

Strut replacement is one of the best-value DIY jobs in automotive maintenance. Shops charge $500–$900 for a pair of front struts — and the actual parts cost $150–$300. The labor premium exists because shops factor in the time to safely compress springs, assemble the strut, and perform an alignment afterward. With the right tools and this guide, you can do the same job in 3–4 hours and pocket the difference.

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Quick-Strut vs. Individual Components: Which Should You Buy?

Before you order parts, understand the two approaches:

Quick-strut (complete assembly):

• Comes pre-assembled: strut, spring, upper mount, and bearing as one unit
• No spring compressor needed — just unbolt the old assembly and bolt in the new one
• Costs more in parts ($120–$200 per corner vs. $60–$100 for strut alone)
• Recommended for beginners — eliminates spring compression risk

Individual components:

• Buy the strut cartridge, keep the existing spring (if not worn), replace upper mount
• Requires a spring compressor — rental available at most auto parts stores
• Lower parts cost, but requires careful spring compression procedure
• Better option if your springs are still in good shape

Recommendation: If your car is over 100,000 miles or the springs have never been replaced, use quick-struts and be done with it. The extra parts cost is worth the simplicity.

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Tools You'll Need

• Jack and jack stands (never work under a car on a floor jack alone)
• 18mm – 21mm wrench and socket (varies by vehicle)
• Torque wrench
• Spring compressor (if doing individual components — available free at AutoZone with deposit)
• Impact wrench or breaker bar (strut top nuts are often very tight)
• Pry bar or strut spring compressor tool
• Thread locker (for upper strut mount bolts on some vehicles)

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Step-by-Step: Quick-Strut Replacement

Step 1: Loosen the wheel before jacking

With the car on the ground, loosen (don't remove) the lug nuts on the wheel you're working on. This prevents the wheel from spinning while you apply torque.

Step 2: Lift and support the vehicle

Jack up the car at the manufacturer's jack points and place jack stands under the frame or subframe. Remove the wheel.

Step 3: Disconnect brake line and ABS sensor brackets

There are usually 1–2 clips securing the brake line and ABS sensor wire to the strut. Unclip them so they don't stretch when the strut comes down.

Step 4: Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts

Two large bolts (usually 18–21mm) connect the strut to the steering knuckle. These may be very tight — use penetrating oil if they've never been removed. Remove both bolts and push the knuckle away from the strut.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

Open the hood. You'll see 2–3 nuts securing the top of the strut mount to the chassis. Remove them. The strut assembly is now free.

Step 6: Lower the strut assembly out

Wiggle the strut down and out through the wheel well. On some vehicles you'll need to turn the wheel to full lock to get clearance.

Step 7: Install the new quick-strut

Position the new assembly (pay attention to the orientation mark on the upper mount — it should face forward or toward the firewall depending on the vehicle). Thread in the upper mount nuts by hand first, then torque to spec. Insert the lower knuckle bolts and torque to spec.

Step 8: Reinstall wheel, lower car, torque lug nuts

Always torque lug nuts in a star pattern. Typical torque: 80–100 ft-lb.

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Spring Compressor Safety (If Doing Individual Components)

If you're using a spring compressor, this is the step that demands the most respect. A spring under full compression stores enough energy to cause serious injury if it releases unexpectedly.

Rules:

• Use proper coil spring compressors with safety hooks — not generic C-clamps
• Compress the spring evenly from both sides
• Never fully remove the spring from the compressor until it is fully seated in the new strut
• Wear safety glasses

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Alignment After Strut Replacement

Strut replacement changes the suspension geometry — you need a wheel alignment afterward. Some shops include this in their strut job pricing; most don't tell you until afterward.

DIY alignment (basic): You can adjust toe yourself using a string method or tape measure — toe changes most with strut replacement. Camber and caster typically require shop equipment.

Best approach: Budget $80–$120 for a shop alignment after DIY strut replacement. You're still saving $200–$400 overall vs. having a shop do everything.

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Cost Comparison

Approach	Parts	Labor	Alignment	Total
DIY (quick-struts, front pair)	$280–$400	$0	$90–$120	$370–$520
DIY (individual components)	$160–$240	$0	$90–$120	$250–$360
Shop (front pair, all in)	$300–$450	$300–$450	Included	$600–$900

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Related Guides

• Signs of Worn Shocks & Struts (And What to Do)
• Car Alignment: What You Can and Can't DIY
• How to Replace Ball Joints: DIY Guide

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